Shoe



Dec. 12, 1944. QUINN 2,364,816

SHOE

Filed Nov. 21, 1942 V 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig. 1

16 a I K\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ Fig". 3

Dec. 12, 1944. E. QUINN 2,364,816

SHOE

Filed Nov. 21, 1942 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Dec. 12, 1944.

E. QUINN SHOE Filed Nov. 21, 1942 3 Sheets-$hee-t 3 Patented Dec. 12, 1944 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE Edward Quinn, Saugu s, Mass., assignor. to United Shoe Machinery'corporation, Flemington, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application November 21, 1942, Serial No. 466,447

9 Claims. (01. 36-12)] This invention relates to improvements in shoes. I 1

The general object of the invention is to provide ashoe of simple but rugged construction which has a distinctive and pleasing appearance and which embodies novelfeatures of practical utility and is inexpensive to manufacture.

Another object of the invention is'to provide for increased wear'in the bottom of the shoe without employing a single ply sole of excessive thickness.

In one of its illustrative embodiments my improved shoe comprises an upper and a single leather sole, the sole having a grain surface at its upper side and having at that side an upstanding marginal flange to the inner side of which the upper is secured by means of a lacing. As

shown, the flange is integral with the body of the ole and consists of the upturned flap of aninside marginal channel, i. e., a channel formed by a out which extends from thegrain face of the sole outwardly toward the sole edge. Thus, the outer side of the flap which is exposed to View in the finished shoe, as well as the upper side of the sole margin which extends outwardly beyond the flange, has a grain leather surface, this being a feature which contributes to the production of a pleasing and finished appearance in the shoe; A lacing extends through a series of small perforation's in the sole flange and through a correspondingseries of registering perforations in the margin of the upper. A line of stitching is sewn aroundthe margin of the sole, the stitches being located outwardly of, but closely adjacent to, the face of the sole flange and serving to reinforce the integral connection between the'flange' and the body' of the sole so as to insure against any tendency of the flange to tear away from the sole. The sole having a flesh surface upon its lower side provides a soft yielding tread for the shoe and makes the sole substantially more resistant to wear under certain conditions of use than it would be if it had a grain surface upon its tread side. In order, however, to provide for even greater wear in the bottom of theshoe Fig. 1 is a plan view of the sole of my improved shoe as it appears before. the flap of the channel has been raised into upstanding position to. form the attaching flange; Q Fig. 2 is a fragmentary sectional view-taken along the line 'IIII of .Fig. 1;

along the line VII-VII of Fig. 6;

- Figs .'.8and 9 are fragmentary sectional views similar to Fig. 7 but illustrating modified consandal shown in Fig. 13. A

structions;

, Fig. 10 is-a fragmentary perspective view of a shoe constructed in accordancewith my invention and having a two-ply sole; 7

' Fig. '11 is a fragmentary sectional view takenalong the line XI -XI of Fig. 10; I

i Fig. 12 is a perspective view of a sole construct-F edin accordance with my invention for use in the manufacture of an open shank sandal;

Fig. 13v is a perspective view of an open shank sandal embodying the sole shown in Fig. 12; and

. Fig. 14 is aview in longitudinal section of the- Referring first to Figs. 1 to 9, inclusive, of the drawings, the invention is therein illustrated as embodied in a shoe having a single ply sole l6 cut from a thin piece of leather having a grain surface at one side and a flesh surface at its opposite side. The sole is prepared for the attachment of an upper thereto by having a marwithout employing a single ply sole of excessive" ginal. channel it formed in its grain-surfaced side by a out which extends from that surface outwardly toward the sole edge, and by raising the-flap 20 of the channel into an upstanding position to form an upper attaching flange 22 that'is integral with the sole (see Figs. 3 and 5 A series of small perforations 24 are punched in the flange for the reception of a lacing 26 (Fig. 6) by means of which the upper is to be secured The upper 28 is out to size without surplus marginal allowance and, as shown in Fig.4, it comprises a vamp '30 anda two-part quarter 32, the quarter being stitched to the vamp in the usual manner. While-the upper is ln in the sole are uniformly spaced and correspond in number to those in the upper but the perforaitions in the upper are spaced somewhat more widely in certain parts as, for example, around the forepart, so that when the two sets of per} 'forations are brought into registration a desired inclusive, so that the stitches 406 will reinforce the flange 22 as well as secure the sole layer 4 to the shoe.

For use in making an 'open shank'sandal I have shown in Fig. 12 a leather sole I66 having an upper attaching flange 266 which extends around the forepart and a short distance only into the shank portion of the sole; theflange'being formed at the grain side of the'sole by raising the flap of a channel cut in the sole in the same manner as that hereinbefore described. The flange 260 .is provided with a series of lacing receiving perforations 340.

The heel and shank portions of the is ole are split, as indicated at 50, into an upper amount of fullness will be thrown intothe vamp.- i The shoe is completed by sewing a continuous line of stitching 46 through the marginal por-" tion of the sole which projects beyond the flange 22, the stitches being located close to the base of the flange and serving to reinforce the integral connection between the flange andthe sole so as layer 52, and a lower layer 54, each of which is integrally connected at its forward extremity with the forepart of the sole and a U-shaped slit 56 is formed in the heel portion of the upper layer 52, the slit extending from the upper to the lower side-ofthat layer and dividingv it intoa central I heel seat tab 58 and a marginal U-shaped rand v layer.

to insure against any tendency of the flange to o peel or tear away from the sole. 1

Inasmuch as the upper attaching flange, in the shoethus produced, isv formed by the flap of an inside channel, the flange vwill have "a natural curvature heightwise of the shoe adapting it to conform to the contour of the foot and the upper edge of the flange will coincide in circumference with the size of the upper, whereas if the flange were formed by raising the flap of an'outside channel it would, of course, be oversize at its top edge'andthus would not be readily conformable to the shape of the foot. Moreover, the exposed outer side of the flange 22 has a grain leather surface which is continuous with the grainsurface atthe adjacent upper side of the projecting margin of the sole and which imparts .afinished and attractive appearance to the shoe. The sole of the shoe ,has'a flesh surface at its tread side, this being a feature which makes the sole more resist- 66,-each integral with the forward portion of that a sole, as illustrated in Figs. 13 and 14, comprises a forepart strap assembly 62 and a separate back part or quarter 64. The end portions of thestraps constituting the forepart assembly are provided with a series of lacing receiving perforations 342 (Fig. 13) In making the. shoe the forepart upper assembly 62 is disposed with the end portions of its straps lying against the inner side of the sole flange and with the perforations 342 registering with the p rforations 340 in the flange, and a lacing 426 is threaded through the registered perforations and through the perforations in the sole flange in the localities between ant to wear under certain conditions of use and f enables the wearer to tread. softly and with less tendency to slip. r L

It may be found desirable to cut the upper of the shoe with a narrow marginal allowance, and to turn this marginal portion. inwardly, in the act of assembling the upper withthe sole, as shown at 42 in Fig. 8, to fill the channel I8 so that no marginal depression will be present inside the shoe. Alternatively, thechannel l8 may be filled by means of a separate filler strip, or by a, mass of plastic filling material, as indicated at 44 in Fig. 9, this filling-material being applied'either before or after the upper has been secured to the sole flange. A sock lining 46 may be employed to cover the inner side of the sole l8 and'the fill-l ing material 44. If desired, a sock lining similar to .the sock lining 46 may be used in shoes constructed as shown in Figs. 7 and 8. i

In order to provide a shoe bottom adapted to withstand a greater amount of wear without em-.

playing a single ply sole of increased. thickness,

a layer or ply 48, which need be no thicker than the layer constituting the sole l6and which, is

cut to correspond in size and shape to the latter, K is secured in placeupon the shoe bottom as by means of cement. Thereafter, as shown in Figs; 10 and 11, the ply 48 is secured to the sole. l6 by a marginal line' of throughand-through stitches 400, the line of stitches being .locatedin the sole I6 in the same relation to the upper-attaching flange 22 as the stitches 46, shown in Figs. 6 to 9,

the straps, as shown in Fig. 13. ..A last is-then thrust into the shoe, the lower heel and shank layer 54 and the rand .60 are turnediback away from the last, and the margin-of the back part 64 islasted over the tab 58 and secured to the latter as by means of tacks 66 (Fig. 14). As shown, the back part 64 may comprise an outer layer 68, a lining l0 and a counter-stiffener 12 which is interposed betweenthe outerlayer and the lining. A shank stiffener 14 may be secured by tacks 16 to the lower side of the upper solelayer 52 ,the stiffener. extending forwardly between the sole layers 5|) and 52 substantially. to the break line at the junction of the shank and'forward portions of the sole. Therand 60 is then returned to normal positionso that its inner edgeengages the outer side of the back part of the upper just above the overlasted lower margin thereof. A

spring heel lift 18 is laid over thelasted heel seat of theshoe and secured to the latter as by means of e a series of nails, one of which is shown at 80, the nails extending through the margin, of the back part 64 and intothe tab 58 as shown in Fig. 1jl. Thenthe lower layer 54 of the sole is laid overthe'heel lift 18 and a line of stitching 82 is'sewn through thesole'layer 54, the heel lift l8 and the'rand 66 to secure these parts together.

Forwardly of the heel lift .18 the stitching 82 is continued alongopposite sides of the shank and around the forepart, the stitching serving to se cure directly together thetwo sole layers '56 and 52 in the shank portion of thesole and serving also in this portion and in the forepart of the sole to reinforce the sole flange 260, the stitch-' ing 82 being, for this latter purpose, located close to the base, of the flange as in the case of'the pre-" viously described constructions. Finally, the outsole isltrimmedand its trimmededge is finished in any conventional manner, the trimming being An upper suitable for assembly with such.

carried-out so as to insure-=that'the edges of the rand '60, the heel lift 18' and the lower layer 54 will be'flusharou'nd' the heel portion of the shoe bottom. As shownfa sock lining 84 may be inserted in the shoe. i j Obviously, the design and relative arrangement of the'parts of the upper-of the'shoe'shown in Figs.'13 and 14 may bevaried-and the'abov'e-described feature 'ofhaving the upper laced to a sole flange inthe forepart or in the forepart and shank portions and overlasted upon a tabcut from the sole in the heel portion is not necessarily restricted in its application to open shank types of shoes but may be ing full uppers. I 1

"Having described my invention, what-I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: a 1

:1. A shoe comprising a solehaving an upstandingflange formed integrally therewith and consisting of the upturnedflapof a marginal channel extending from the upper face of the sole outwardly toward the sole edge, said flang having a series of perforations extending therealong, an upper having its lower margin lying against the inner side of said flange, said margin having a series. of perforations therein registering with the perforations in saidflange, a lacing running through the respective registering perforations and securing the upper to the flange, and. a line of stitching extending through the margin of said sole outwardly of but closely adjacent to the base of. said. flange, said stitching reinforcing the integral connection between the flange and the bodyof the sole.

2. A shoe comprising a leather sole having an upstanding marginal flange formed integrally therewith and spaced inwardly from the sole edge, the sole having a marginal grain surface at its upper side outwardly of said flange and said flange having a series of perforations extending therealong and having at its outer. side a grain surface continuous with said marginal grain surface, an upper having a lower margin engaging the inner side of said flange, said margin having a series of perforations therein registering with the perforations in said flange, a' lacing running through the respective registering perforations and securing the upper to the sole, and a line of stitching extending through the margin of the sole outwardly of but closely adjacent 'to the base of said flange and reinforcing the integral connection between the flange and the body of the sole.

3. A shoe comprising a leather sole having upon its upper side an upstanding marginal flange consisting of the upturned flap of an endless marginal channel formed by a cut directed from the upper face of the sole outwardly toward the sole edge and extending entirely around the sole, said flange having a grain surface at its outer side and having a series of perforations extending therealong, an upper having its lower margin overlapping the inner side of said flange, said margin having a series of perforations registering with the perforations in the flange, a lacing extending through the respective registering perforations and securing the upper to the inner side of the flange, and a line of stitching extending through the margin of said sole, said stitching being located outwardly of but. closely adjacent to the base of said flange to reinforce the joint between the flange and the body of the sole.

4. A shoe comprising a sole having an upstanding flange consisting of the upturned flap of a embodied in shoes havmarginal channel cut in the' upperface of the sole and extending outwardly, toward-the --so1e edge, said flange havingaseries of perforations extending therealong, an upper ha'ving a'lower portion lying against the inner side of said flang and provided with a series of perforations registering with the perforations in said flange, the marginal extremity of said lower portionbeing inturned and laid in said channel so as to fill the latter, a lacing extending through the'respective registering perforations and securing th upper to said flange, a second .sole beneath the first, sole, and a' line of stitching extendingtthrough the margins of said soles outwardly of said flange and securing the soles together. l I

5; A shoe, comprisingva "leather solehavinga grain surface at its upper side and having. ,an upstanding flange formed integrally withthe sole and consisting of the upturned flap of a mar-: ginal channel cut in the grain surface of the sole and extending outwardly toward the sole edge, said flangerhaving a grain'isurfaceat its outer side and a series of perforations extending therealong, :an upper having its lower marginulying against, the inner side-of said flange, said margin having aseries of perforations registering with the perforations in said. flange, a lacing extending through the respective registering perforations and securing the upper to said sole, asecond sole beneath the first sole, and ,a line of stitchingv extending through the margins of said soles and securing the' soles' together, said ,stitchingbeing located outwardly, of butclosely adjacent to the base; of said flange and reinforcing 'the integral connection between said flange and saidfirst sole.

6. A shoe comprising a sole having an upstanding flange formed integrally therewith and consisting of the upturned flap of a marginal channel extending from the upper face of the sole outwardly toward the-sole edge, said flange having a series of perforations extending therealong, an upper having an inturned lower margin received within said channel and filling the same and having a portion immediately above said 'inturned,

margin engaging the inner side of said flange, said portion having a series of perforations therein registering with the perforations in said flange, a lacing threaded through said respective registering perforations and securing the upper to the sole, and a line of stitching extending through the I margin of said'sole outwardly of but close to the base of said flange, said stitching reinforcing the integral connection between said flange and the body of the sole.

7. A shoe comprising a sole having an upstanding flange formed integrally therewith and consisting of the flap of a marginal channel cut in the upper face of the sole and extending outwardly toward the sole edge, said flange having a series of perforations extending therealong, an upper cut to size without surplus marginal a1- lowance and having its lower margin lyingagainst the inner side of said flange, said margin having a series of perforations registering with the perforations in said flange, a lacing extending through the respective registering perforations and securing the upper to said sole, a

second sole beneath the first sole, and a line of upstanding flange formed integral therewith and extendingaround its forepart and into its shank portion at the upper side of the sole, said flange consisting of the lip of a marginal channel cut in the upper face of the sole and extending outwardly toward the'sole edge and said sole hav ing its heel and shank portions divided edgewise into an upper layer and a lower layer each integrally connected at its forward extremity v with the forepart of the sole and the heel portion of said upper layer having a marginal U-shaped' slit extending from its upper to its lower side and dividing said layer into a central tab and a marginal U-shaped rand each integral with the forward portion of said .layer, an upper comprising a vamp and a quarter, said vamp having its lower margin secured to the inner side of said flange and said quarter having its lower margin inturned between said randvand said tab and secured in overlasted position upon the lower side of said tab, a heel lift positioned between said overlasted upper margin and said lower sole layer and secured to said tab, and a line of stitching extending entirely around the margin of said sole, said stitching securing together said rand, said heel lift and said lower sole layer and bein located outwardly of but adjacent to the base of said flange in the shank and forepart of the sole to'reinforce the integral connection between the flange and the body of the sole.

9. An open shank sandal comprising a tread sole havingan upstanding flange formed integral therewith and extending around its forepart at the upper side of the sole, said flange consisting of the lip of a marginal channel cut in the upper face of the sole and extending outwardlytoward the sole edge and said sole having its heel and shankportions divided edgewise into an upper layer and a lower layer each integrally connected at its forward extremity with the forepart of the sole and the heel portion of said'upper layer having a U-shaped slit extendin from its upper to its lower side and dividing said layer into a central tab and a marginal U-shaped rand each integral with the forward portion of said layer; an upper comprising separate forward and rear portions, said forward portion having its lower margin secured to the inner side of said flange and said rear portion having its lower margin inturned between said rand and said tab and secured in overlasted position upon the lower side of said tab, a shank stifiener interposed between said upper and lower layers and extending substantially throughout the length of the shank portion of the sole, a spring heel interposed between the overlasted upper margin and said lower sole layer and secured to said tab, and a line of stitching extending entirely around the margin of said sole, said stitchin securing together the rand, the spring heel and the lower layer of the sole in the heel portion of the shoe and securing the upper sole layer to the lower sole layer in the shank portion of the sole and being located outwardly of but adjacent to the outer side .of said flange in the i orepart of the sole and reinforcing the integral connection between said flange and the body portion of the sole.

EDWARDQUINN. 

